The Melting Teapot

I often associate aged oolongs with the aroma of coconut being toasted in a pan.  There is something very appealing about this aroma, reminiscent of sweets being baked for a special occasion.  Today I was in need of a sense of comforting homey goodness, so I opened a recently received envelope of aged oolong from Far West Trading Company.

The Lou’s Leaves Aged Ti Kwan Yin is 15 years old and has been re-roasted by a tea master every 2 years.  As I poured steaming water over the dry leaves in my teapot, those 15 years of re-roasting were evident as the toasted coconut aroma filled the air.  Mmmmmmmm…that was just what I was craving today.  There was also a scent of just-toasted whole wheat bread and a hint of dried hay.

I took a sip and found warm toast to be the predominant flavor, if the toast was a whole-grain bread with nuts and seeds. Coconut is hidden behind the toast, but it is not as sweet as other aged oolongs I’ve tasted.  Tie Guan Yin often has a sugary aspect to me, so I am surprised to find this a bit on the wilder side. There is a green element, sort of a wild grassiness or not-quite-ripe apricot. It gives a nice edginess to the tea, but it also makes it a bit prone to bitterness.  Make sure to steep this one gently – don’t overbrew it!

By the third and fourth steepings of the leaves, the flavor has moved far away from toast and is becoming more like an un-aged oolong.  There is an underlying stone fruit that has taken over, and a light floral component is appearing on the nose.  While I miss the toasted coconut, it is fun to sip a tea that gradually peels back the layers of flavors to expose its underlying essence.

Aged oolongs aren’t easy to find, but tea vendors who specialize in Chinese and Taiwanese teas will often have one or two examples available.  I encourage you to try some.  I think you’ll be surprised at just how intricate and delicate these teas can be, while standing up to multiple infusions throughout the day.